Huaihua 3-Day Tour | Classic Combo of Hongjiang Ancient Commercial City and Phoenix Ancient Town・All-Age Friendly Guide
Huaihua, a "museum of ancient cities" hidden deep in western Hunan. Here lies the prosperous legacy of Ming and Qing dynasty merchant guilds, the border town charm depicted by Shen Congwen, and the melodious songs from the Dong village drum towers—take elders to stroll the old bluestone streets, accompany children to play by the Tuojiang River. Every day here feels like opening a thick history book.
🗓️ Itinerary Overview
D1: Arrive in Huaihua → Hongjiang Ancient Commercial City
D2: Phoenix Ancient Town
D3: Zhijiang Surrender Memorial Archway → Return trip
🏮 Day 1: Merchant Guild Stories · Tracing Ancient Alleys
📍 Hongjiang Ancient Commercial City (4A, ticket 100 RMB)
Highlights: Known as "China's First Ancient Commercial City," it preserves over 380 Ming and Qing dynasty merchant buildings, including escort agencies, banks, and brothel ruins, regarded as a "living fossil of Ming and Qing society." Elders can watch escort master performances at the "Zhongyi Escort Agency" (free, starts at 11:00) and listen to old shopkeepers' business stories; children can play "shopkeeper" at the "Lijin Bureau" (20 RMB per session, dress in ancient costumes and use an abacus), and buy "Hongjiang Sweet Sauce" (10 RMB per bottle) as snacks.
🕙 Opening Hours: 8:00-18:00
📸 Photo Spots: Courtyard of the underground house (capture sunlight through carved window lattices), Ancient Commercial City Archway (panoramic shot in morning mist)
💡 Tips: It’s recommended to hire a guide (50 RMB per session) to understand many merchant stories; take elders along the main street to avoid narrow alleys and steps.
🍖 Recommended Dining: "Old Street Eatery" inside the Ancient Commercial City, must-try Hongjiang Blood Duck (68 RMB), stir-fried sour radish with pork tripe (38 RMB), about 50 RMB per person, dining in a century-old underground house offers great atmosphere.
🏨 Recommended Accommodation: "Hongjiang Ancient Commercial Inn" next to the city (wooden structure with carved beds), priced 200-300 RMB/night, you can hear footsteps in the alley at night.
🌊 Day 2: Border Town Charm · Leisurely Flow of Tuojiang River
📍 Phoenix Ancient Town (4A, free entry, nine-scenery combined ticket 148 RMB)
Highlights: The prototype of Shen Congwen’s "Border Town," the Tuojiang River flows through the town, stilted buildings built along the hills, lanterns light up at night like stars fallen to earth. Elders can take a black-awning boat (50 RMB/person) on the Tuojiang River and sunbathe at the North Gate Tower; children can play in the Tuojiang jumping rocks (bring change of clothes), learn to make Miao silver jewelry (30 RMB each), and buy ginger candy (15 RMB per bag) to snack while strolling.
🕙 Opening Hours: All day (nine scenic spots 8:00-18:00)
📸 Photo Spots: Tuojiang jumping rocks (capture stilted building reflections), Rainbow Bridge night view (when lights sparkle)
💡 Tips: The ancient town is highly commercialized, remember to bargain when shopping; avoid riverside lodging with elders (noisy bars at night), choose inns inside alleys.
🍖 Recommended Dining: "Wanmu Zhai," a time-honored brand, must-try Miao sour soup fish (68 RMB), community rice (10 RMB/bowl), about 60 RMB per person, popular with locals.
🕊️ Day 3: Peaceful Imprint · Return Journey
📍 Zhijiang Surrender Memorial Archway (4A, free)
Highlights: China’s only memorial site for the victory surrender of the Anti-Japanese War, the archway is inscribed with the words "Shocking the Ancient and Illuminating the Present," the museum holds abundant historical materials and artifacts. Elders can watch restored scenes in the surrender hall to commemorate history; children can feed peace doves at "Peace Square" (10 RMB per bag of feed), learn to fold paper cranes to hang on the peace wall (free), and buy commemorative badges (15 RMB each) as gifts.
🕙 Opening Hours: 9:00-17:00 (closed Mondays)
💡 Tips: Free guided tours at 10:00 and 14:00, recommended for children; maintain quiet inside the museum and respect history.
🍖 Recommended Dining: "Yang Ersao Restaurant" in Zhijiang town, must-try Zhijiang duck (58 RMB), stir-fried Zhijiang rice noodles (12 RMB/bowl), about 40 RMB per person, duck meat is fragrant but not greasy.
✨ Huaihua Survival Guide
1️⃣ Transportation: From Huaihua city to Hongjiang Ancient Commercial City take bus No.3 (5 RMB, 1 hour); to Phoenix Ancient Town take tourist shuttle (30 RMB/person, 1.5 hours); to Zhijiang taxi costs about 80 RMB (1 hour), carpooling recommended.
2️⃣ Clothing: Wear light jackets in spring and autumn (cool mornings and evenings in mountainous areas), short sleeves plus sun protection clothing in summer (strong UV by Tuojiang River), down jackets in winter (damp and cold in western Hunan), bring non-slip shoes (ancient city stone roads are slippery when wet).
3️⃣ Taboos: Do not touch the shrines casually in Miao inns in Phoenix Ancient Town; no horseplay inside the surrender memorial archway; do not touch old items inside merchant shops in the ancient commercial city.
4️⃣ Accommodation: Stay in Hongjiang Ancient Commercial City on Day 1, Phoenix Ancient Town on Day 2 (e.g., "Riverside Courtyard," quiet alley), and city center on Day 3 for convenient return.
🛍️ Must-Buy Souvenirs
① Zhijiang Duck (vacuum-packed 50 RMB each, spicy and flavorful)
② Phoenix Ginger Candy (old brand "Master Jia," 20 RMB/box, sweet, spicy, and chewy)
③ Hongjiang Sweet Sauce (century-old "Liu Tongqing" brand, 15 RMB/bottle, great for cooking seasoning)
④ Miao Silver Jewelry Pendants (30-50 RMB each, handmade, strong ethnic style)
The soul of Huaihua is the shrewdness tapped out by the abacus beads in Hongjiang Ancient Commercial City, the gentleness reflected by the stilted buildings along the Tuojiang River in Phoenix, and the peace engraved on the Zhijiang Surrender Archway. Whether reminiscing with parents in the ancient city, counting waves with children by the river, or reflecting on history with friends in the memorial hall, the stories here always invite you to listen slowly. If you come to Huaihua, would you rather first go to Phoenix to see the night view or to Hongjiang to explore merchant guild stories?