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Punakha Drubchen and the Punakha Tsechu

#springitinerary The Drubchen festival commemorates the Bhutanese army defeating the Tibetan army in Punakha almost 400 years ago. Legend says that during the siege of Punakha, the first Chief Abbott of Bhutan (the man who unified the country) pretended to throw important relics that the Tibetans sought into the river, causing their army to end the siege. During the festival, locals dressed like soldiers from both armies spend the day dancing, riding horses, and attempting to threaten the other army. It all culminates in the current head monk of Punakha going to the same riverside and throwing relics (which are actually just ordinary oranges) into the river where young kids fight each other to take home a blessed orange, while the “Tibetan soldiers” on the other side of the river despair. Such a neat and interesting way to commemorate an important event in Bhutan’s history. The following day came the Tsechu festival, which seemed to have a party type atmosphere. I have no idea what the festival was about (my guide might have told me, but I certainly don’t remember). I think that’s because I couldn’t get over the Atsaras, masked men who carry giant wooden phalluses whose job is the entertainment the crowd. They do this by dancing, pretending to fight each other, and “attacking” women in the crowd with their giant phalluses. Apparently it’s an honor and a blessing to be “attacked” in this manner during the festival. Everyone seemed to be enjoying it, especially the masked men with the phalluses. Such a cool experience.
Posted: May 31, 2025
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