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Victoria JohnsonUnited States

A Two-Day Journal of Ice and Snow at Laojun Mountain

Day One: Chasing the Sunset on Foot Started hiking in the afternoon, spending nearly three and a half hours steadily climbing up to Zhongtianmen. The ascent was tiring but well worth it. Then headed towards Shili Huaping (Ten-Mile Painted Screen), where the scene before me felt like a dream—mountains frozen in ice, the setting sun melting gold, light and shadow flowing between ridges and ice edges, changing with every step, as if stepping into a fairyland. As darkness fell, continued climbing to the Golden Summit. At that moment, the lights suddenly turned on, and the entire temple complex instantly sparkled like stars, as if the heavenly palace had descended to the mortal world. The wind howled fiercely in my ears, golden light flickered before my eyes, and the shock of it is something no photo can ever capture. Day Two: Waiting for a Ray of Light in the Cold Wind At 5:30 a.m., set off again from Zhongtianmen in the dark. Arrived at Funiu Peak before 7 a.m. and waited quietly. At 7:35 a.m., the morning light arrived right on time—the first ray of light landed precisely on the gilded roof of the Golden Hall, making the entire hall look like it was set ablaze. At that moment, all the cold and fatigue were forgotten. (The only small regret: many of the sparkling rime ice had already melted, but the sunrise at the mountain top was unforgettable enough.) 📝 A few practical tips for your reference: 1️⃣ You can arrange your itinerary like this: hike in the afternoon and chase the sunset → watch the lights at night → stay near Zhongtianmen → get up early the next day to climb to the summit and wait for the sunrise. Tested and the pace is just right. 2️⃣ Don’t skimp on gear: anti-slip crampons, headlamp, windproof thick jacket, and a hat that covers your ears—missing any one of these can make things quite miserable. The wind at the summit will really teach you a lesson. 3️⃣ Accommodation suggestion: staying near Zhongtianmen is a good choice, balancing energy, time, and experience. (Honestly, it’s also because it’s nearly impossible to get a spot at the mountain top hostel…) 4️⃣ Water is hard to come by on the mountain in winter, and most guest rooms don’t have running water. It’s recommended to bring some wet wipes and hand sanitizer for simple cleaning. This trip has cleansed both my eyes and heart. The most beautiful scenery is always discovered step by step; the brightest morning light is always reserved for those who persist through the darkness.
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Posted: Dec 14, 2025
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