The Inner Yearning of a Roman Emperor -- Canopus

Canopus is the most well-known relic in Hadrian's Villa. Hadrian's Villa was designed and planned by Emperor Hadrian, one of the Five Good Emperors of Rome. Emperor Hadrian loved traveling and architecture throughout his life. Hadrian's Villa served as his architectural laboratory, incorporating experiences from his travels across the Roman Empire, spanning Europe, Asia, and Africa. The villa features elements of Roman, Greek, and Egyptian architecture, creating an unparalleled style. Among the many Greek and Egyptian-style buildings, the most prominent surviving structure is Canopus. Scholars have long believed that this pool symbolized the Grand Canal of Canopus, an ancient Egyptian city in the Nile Delta, due to the discovery of crocodile sculptures on one side and the Serapeum (a temple dedicated to Serapis, a Hellenistic-Egyptian god) at the end of the pool. However, recent archaeological findings suggest that Canopus might symbolize the Nile or the Mediterranean Sea, which better explains the presence of Greek statues of Hermes and Amazon warriors, representing Greece and Asia Minor. Additionally, Canopus and the temple are now thought to have been used not for worship but as a summer retreat and entertainment venue for Emperor Hadrian. For me, Hadrian's Villa is quite a distance from Rome and not easy to reach. I went there specifically for Canopus, drawn by the beautiful photos on various websites and the romantic love stories described in many Chinese travelogues. However, Canopus has nothing to do with those romantic stories. Instead, another ruin in the villa is more likely related to the love story, though it is now just a foundation, and it's hard for an ordinary person like me to discern what it was. So, even though I later learned that Canopus was a large amusement facility, I still prefer to believe that its Egyptian style reflects Emperor Hadrian's mourning for his lost lover in Egypt. Viewing these weathered ruins through this melancholic lens enhances their charm. 👨❤️💋👨 Romantic Love Story: During his travels across the Roman Empire, Emperor Hadrian met a Greek youth named Antinous in present-day Turkey and brought him back to Rome for education. Over time, Hadrian and Antinous developed a romantic relationship. Hadrian, who loved to travel, always took Antinous with him across his vast territories. However, during a visit to Egypt, Antinous drowned in the Nile. The cause of his death remains a mystery, with theories ranging from murder to accident to sacrifice. The sacrifice theory is the most romantic, suggesting that Antinous voluntarily jumped into the Nile to cure the ailing Hadrian, who miraculously recovered. Regardless of the cause, Hadrian was deeply affected by Antinous's death, often weeping publicly. Hadrian renamed the place where Antinous drowned after him, deified him, and built temples and monuments in his honor. This deeply moving story makes it hard not to associate the Egyptian elements in Hadrian's Villa with Antinous. Indeed, a temple dedicated to Antinous has been found in the villa, and some scholars believe his tomb lies beneath it. The Antinous Obelisk, now on Pincian Hill in Rome, was originally located here. Unlike previous Roman emperors, Hadrian spent his later years living in this villa, managing the vast Roman Empire, perhaps to stay close to his beloved. 🚗 Transportation: To reach this ancient Roman estate, take Metro Line B from Rome to Ponte Mammolo station, then transfer to a bus to Hadrian's Villa station (bus route Roma-Tivoli-Via Prenestina).