Cappadocia in Winter
A few notes about traveling to Cappadocia during winter/off-season:
1. Whether it's winter or summer, having a car is essential. We flew (from Istanbul) to Kayseri Airport and had pre-booked a car there (found an option without a deposit/credit card, as we didn’t have one :)
2. Why Kayseri Airport and not Nevsehir? Because the city of Kayseri itself is worth visiting. It has preserved examples of Seljuk architecture (mosques, madrasas, mausoleums) and an excellent castle. Plus, flights from Istanbul to Kayseri were more convenient :)
3. Weather - it's a gamble. On our first day, it was sunny, the second day cloudy, and the third day snowy. The worst is when it's cloudy - the scenery isn’t as beautiful. Snow and sunshine, however, are stunning.
4. Off-season means very few people. This is fantastic. We strolled almost alone through all the attractions. A big plus.
5. Downsides - balloon flights are only possible if you're very lucky with the weather (sunny and no wind), which is unlikely. For us, this wasn’t critical :)
6. Tips for routes/attractions:
· Göreme Open-Air Museum (where the churches are) - definitely yes. Entrance is €20, but it’s worth it. They accept Union Pay cards from non-sanctioned banks :) There’s also parking for 100 lira, but you can park a bit earlier on the other side of the road and walk 100 meters :) Inside, there’s a separate entrance to the Dark Church for €6. We went, but honestly, it’s not necessary; had we known, we wouldn’t have gone :)
After visiting these churches, you can skip the others. Objectively.
· Pasabag and Zelve Valleys. Combined ticket €12, also accepts Union Pay. Definitely worth visiting. Important note: parking at Pasabag is free, while at Zelve it’s 100 lira. Similarly, park 50 meters before the entrance :) Along with the tickets, they try to sell headphones for 450 lira to listen to an audio guide (which you need to download separately). Not really worth it :)
· Climb one of the castles :) There are two - Uchisar and Ortahisar. The first is lower and costs 400 lira, the second is higher and costs 100 lira :) We chose Ortahisar and didn’t regret it (and yes, we were completely alone there :)
· Driving/photographing the valleys (Love, Pigeon, Sword, etc.) is only worth it in sunny weather. We visited them both in sunshine and cloudy conditions - it’s joy and disappointment respectively.
· Underground cities. This is a tricky topic. There are four - the larger ones are Derinkuyu and Kaymakli (entrance €20 each), and the smaller ones are Ozkonak (€8) and Mazi (€3). We decided to test ourselves with the smallest one (Mazi) and didn’t regret it, as once we moved further from the entrance and started descending through the narrow tunnels… and again, there was no one else but us… We ended up rushing back to daylight almost running, even though none of us usually fears confined spaces :)
· Nevsehir. Nothing to do there, not worth the time. We climbed the fort (it’s not old, unlike the ones mentioned above). There’s an underground city, but only a small section is open (though it’s larger than Derinkuyu).
· Monasteries. The most interesting one is Gumusler. It’s actually a whole city with a monastery inside. A must-visit. Entrance €3.
· We also visited the city of Nigde. Just to be able to say we’ve been to “nowhere” :) The city itself doesn’t have much to offer. There are a few Seljuk architecture buildings, but all of that was in Kayseri. The city itself is unimpressive, with no tourist infrastructure at all. But a “Nigde” magnet might be worth it :)