Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka: A Pinterest Expectation or My Big Disappointment?
Sri Lanka is often desperately romanticized. Juicy Pinterest boards, aesthetically pleasing Instagram reels promise eternal summer: warm ocean, perfect surfing, lush tropical nature, delicious food, and a carefree life for next to nothing. The image sells the dream. But for some reason, none of these enthusiastic bloggers write about the total devastation and utter unsuitability of this country, not just for living, but even for a comfortable winter. Well, it's time to take off the rose-colored glasses.
Let's get acquainted. My name is Amor, I'm the founder of my own travel agency and a seasoned traveler. I've traveled to over 27 countries, and it's quite difficult to surprise or frighten me with Spartan conditions.
As part of our Asian wintering trip, my group and I decided to go to Sri Lanka to discover a new, seemingly fantastic and exotic country. We arrived at the very beginning of the season, in January. The weather was stunning. But that's where the fairy tale ended, and the harsh Sri Lankan way of life began.
The capital, bureaucracy, and fruit worth gold
The first thing you encounter upon arriving in Colombo is the local airport. It's in a frankly deplorable state. As someone who has seen a lot, I turn a blind eye to it, but the capital immediately reveals the real state of affairs in the country.
I want to immediately make an important remark about the local financial realities. On the very first day, we decided to exchange money and see how official exchange offices in the capital work—it's always interesting to compare such things in different countries. Using Google Maps, we found an exchange office, which turned out to be a bank branch. The result: it took us 30 minutes to exchange $100. We ran around with papers, filled out endless forms, signed signatures, and waited for them to scan our passports. It was absolutely surreal. We never used any official institutions again, exchanging currency exclusively with local money changers or pawnshops.
The streets in central Colombo are terribly dirty. Finding a decent place to eat is a real challenge. The only decent grocery shopping you can do is at the local Spar, but be prepared for a shock: in this "beautiful exotic country," any fruit will cost you a pretty penny. How about a kilogram of oranges for almost 1,000 rubles? And it's not just the citrus fruits. The country grows practically nothing except tea and rice (and only in the traditional way). All food products, including fruit, are imported.
Compared to any other Southeast Asian country, where ripe fruit lies on every corner for next to nothing, the situation in Sri Lanka seems like a gastronomic hell. Sri Lankans simply don't like or want to do anything. And they don't even try to appear neat. Mentality and "Soviet Luxury"
I understand that comparing Sri Lanka to developed Asia might not be entirely accurate. I'm a very friendly and open person, and I've even managed to make a few local friends here, but this is a huge exception to the rule. Despite my prior preparation and extensive observation, I was shocked by the local mentality. The main goal of most Sri Lankans is to squeeze as much money out of tourists as possible and rip them off at the first opportunity. Even the shrewd traders in Turkish bazaars can't compare to their level of brazenness.
In Colombo, the only island of relative paradise we found was the famous hotel where Chekhov once stayed. But even it today is a dilapidated monument to "Soviet luxury." They could charge less for their rooms. However, this applies to all real estate on the island: any accommodation here is completely unreasonably priced, with no hint of balance between price and quality. South of the Island: Surfing, Smoothies, and Country Melancholy
We then headed south. We biked almost the entire south coast, and it's worth noting that the top surf spots are truly magnificent.
· Ocean: Perfectly warm. Swimming there, catching lineups and green waves is pure pleasure. At these moments, you truly feel like Cody from the cartoon "Catch a Wave!", even if you're riding the foam at a snail's pace.
· Surfing: Board rentals are cheap, and learning to stand on one is easy if you're at least somewhat athletic and trainable.
· Food: There are tons of cute cafes scattered along the coast. If you search, you can find good food. However, after visiting most of the top spots, I'd only single out two or three places as truly good (the rest are downright mediocre). The local smoothie bowls are an absolute must-have. But that's where the south's advantages end.
The infrastructure outside the tourist cafes is depressing. The only shop in the entire village is dirty, smelly, and repulsive. I'm not the most discerning traveler; I've stayed in foreign countries without even an overnight stay, and I can put up with a lot. But some things are tolerable, and some are repulsive. These shops fall into the latter category. I dreamed of never setting foot in them again.
The restaurant prices are exorbitant: a consistent 1,500-2,000 rubles per person for a single meal. Accommodation in all the spots is rundown and incredibly expensive. Good service in Sri Lanka will only be found in those rare, cool cafes and at the surfboard rental point.
Result: To go or not to go?
It's definitely worth renting a bike and exploring the island. The nature outside the cities is incredibly beautiful. Galle is a pleasant colonial town, and Ella is a very pretty place in the mountains. My ideal Sri Lankan day: a smoothie bowl in the morning and a surfing afternoon. It's pure joy. But if you stay here longer than two weeks, you'll slowly start to fade from the surroundings. Sure, downshifters and hippies might appreciate this vibe (though I partially share this philosophy myself), but I've come to a hard conclusion: 14 days in Sri Lanka is the limit. Purely for the sake of surfing, surfing, and more surfing.
The thought of living and working there remotely for a little longer gives me a panic attack.
Would I go back? Yes. When I'm completely tired of everything mundane, but only for the surfing and provided I'm mentally prepared for the poverty, dirt, and lack of service.
Should you visit this country? Definitely. If only to feel like a master of the waves and, most importantly, to return and understand: where you live now, everything is quite good.
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