[Shrines and Temples of Ashikaga] (Ashikaga City, Tochigi Prefecture, Former province name: Shimotsuke)

Ashikaga Takauji (1305-1358), known as the first shogun of the Muromachi shogunate, took advantage of Emperor Godaigo's (1288-1339) uprising to overthrow the Kamakura shogunate, becoming a leading figure in the era and playing a major role in the subsequent Kenmu government. However, when conflict arose with the core of the government, he rebelled and established a shogunate in Kyoto with a different imperial line. After that, he spent his life in conflict and suffering, including back-and-forth struggles with Emperor Godaigo (the Southern Court), who fled to Yoshino in Yamato Province (present-day Nara Prefecture), civil wars among the warlords under his rule, and conflicts with his younger brother Tadayoshi (1306-1352). Takauji was primarily the patriarch or "coordinator" of the Ashikaga clan, and so his rule was not as solid as that of later Sengoku daimyo, and the successive Shoguns who followed him were also plagued by the suppression of powerful shugo daimyo of the same clan, such as Hosokawa, Shiba, and Hatakeyama. In addition, in modern times, as the Southern Court was considered legitimate, Takauji was branded a traitor, and his reputation fluctuated wildly depending on the circumstances of the time. For this reason, although he was an important figure in Japanese history, it cannot be denied that his personality is somewhat difficult to grasp. On the other hand, Takauji's footprints remain, albeit faintly, in Ashikaga, Shimotsuke Province (present-day Tochigi Prefecture), where he was born, and we can sense the impact his presence had on the city's culture. ① Mount Kongo, Ban'anji Temple (photos 2-6) When Emperor Go-Daigo raised his army, the Ashikaga clan was merely one of the retainers serving the Kamakura Shogunate, but they were originally a prestigious branch of the Minamoto clan descended from Minamoto no Yoshiie (1039-1106, a samurai of the late Heian period who played an active role in battles in Oshu and established the status of the Minamoto clan), and their family status and history were highly respected within the Shogunate. The Hojo clan, who controlled the Shogunate, could not ignore their existence, and they repeatedly suppressed and appeased them for generations, forcing the Ashikaga clan to make difficult decisions each time. Bannaji Temple was founded in the early Kamakura period when Yoshikane (Banna), the Buddhist name of Ban'an, enshrined the Dainichi Nyorai, the guardian deity of the clan, on the grounds of his residence. Today, the temple has cultural assets such as the main hall rebuilt by Takauji's father, Sadauji, and the approach to the temple is paved with clean stone pavement, making it a tourist spot in the city along with the nearby "Ashikaga School." The temple grounds were once the Ashikaga clan's residence, and the remains of the early Middle Ages can be clearly observed, such as the moat surrounding the roughly square plot. Looking down on the Ashikaga region from the center of this residence ruin, you can see that the terrain is ideal for a powerful force, with a series of small mountains to the north and east and the Watarase River flowing to the south. And beyond the Watarase River lies Nitta-sho (present-day Ota City, Gunma Prefecture), the territory of Nitta Yoshisada (1301-1338), who became Takauji's ally and rival, and the "closeness" between the two heroes who would later compete for supremacy over the country is astonishing. ② Ashikaga Orihime Shrine (photos 1, 8-10) In the Edo period, when the footsteps of Ashikaga Takauji and the Muromachi Shogunate were long gone, the Ashikaga Domain was established. Although its rice yield was small, the feudal lords who had close ties with the Shogun and his relatives served as the domain lords and sometimes held important positions in the Shogunate. Meanwhile, with the development of the distribution economy, the town established itself as an industrial city, and in particular, "weaving," which has a history of over 1,000 years, became its byword. In 1705, the lord at the time, Toda, invited Ame-no-Mikoto, the god of weaving associated with Ise Grand Shrine, and other deities, and eventually the Orihime Shrine was built on Mount Hatagami (now Mount Orihime). It was destroyed by fire during the Meiji period, but in 1937, a rare reinforced concrete shrine building was completed by local volunteers, which was rare at the time. The vermilion-painted shrine building, shining in the brilliant sunlight, seems to spread its wings, taking advantage of the flat land in the mountains. Its splendor is a notable landmark of the town, and its presence is particularly impressive when lit up at night. Looking out at the night view of the city with the brilliantly lit shrine building behind you, the lattice-patterned streets and the people seen in the motorcades driving by, their lights reflecting on the Watarase River, paradoxically emphasize the quietness of the night. Then, when you take a deep breath, the scent of wisteria flowers swaying in the night breeze suddenly fills the air. Recommended for solo travelers: ★★★★ (There are people, but not many. You can enjoy sightseeing in peace!) Visited: 3rd Saturday of April, around 10pm Access: About 10 minutes on foot from Ashikaga Station #Ashikaga #Bannaji Temple #Ashikaga Orihime Shrine #Tochigi Prefecture #Tochigi Trip #Tochigi Tourism #Domestic Travel #Domestic Travel Lover #Temple #Temple Tour #Temples and Shrines #Shrine #Shrine Tour #Castle #Castle Tour #Japan's 100 Great Castles #National Treasure #Old Townscape #Solo Travel #Solo Travel #History Lover