Qingyan Ancient Town: A Stone Epic in the Heart of Guizhou

Nestled among the rolling hills south of Guiyang, a military fortress built of stone has quietly stood for over six centuries. Qingyan Ancient Town, established in 1378 during the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty, began as a strategic outpost for the central empire's expansion into the southwest. Over time, it shed its martial origins to become a cultural gem of central Guizhou. When morning mist shrouds its bluish stone-paved roads and sunset gilds the ancient city walls, this "Stone City" unfolds a magnificent yet delicate epic before visitors' eyes. ## I. The Birth and Transformation of a Military Stronghold Qingyan's origins are intertwined with the Ming Dynasty's "Northern Expedition to Pacify the South." To consolidate control over the southwest, Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang dispatched 300,000 troops to Yunnan and Guizhou. One contingent established a garrison at this strategic location south of Guiyang. The name "Qingyan" (Blue Rock) derives from the area's distinctive bluish limestone formations, and every stone in this fortress bears traces of conquest and bloodshed. The walls follow the mountainous terrain, with four gates guarding key passages, while the labyrinthine alleyways reflect military ingenuity. At the town's highest point stands the nine-meter-tall Dingguang Gate Tower, its weathered arrow marks silently recounting past battles. As the policy of "replacing native chieftains with imperial officials" took effect, Qingyan underwent a remarkable transformation from military stronghold to commercial hub. By the Kangxi era of the Qing Dynasty, it had become a vital distribution center where goods from across China converged—Huguang textiles, Jiangxi porcelain, Sichuan salt, and Yunnan copper. This commercial activity fostered cultural exchange, blending Han garrison culture with local Miao and Buyi traditions. Beijie Alley, hailed as "China's most charming lane," stretches just 100 meters but preserves faded shop signs that evoke its bustling past when caravans crowded its stone-paved path. ## II. An Architectural Symphony in Stone Wandering Qingyan's streets is like visiting an open-air stone museum. The architecture makes extraordinary use of local karst resources—glistening slate roads, vine-covered stone walls, and exquisitely carved window lattices. Unlike Jiangnan's whitewashed walls or northern courtyard houses' symmetry, Qingyan's dwellings developed unique stone-wood hybrid structures: sturdy stone foundations combat humidity, while wooden upper floors reduce weight. The overlapping gabled roofs create a harmonious duet between stone and timber. Several landmarks stand out. The Wen Chang Pavilion's upturned eaves trace graceful arcs against the sky, its bracket sets ingeniously forming the Big Dipper constellation pattern. The Wan Shou Palace's intricate wood carvings depict Taoist deities, while the Jiangxi Guild Hall testifies to merchant influence. The Gothic spire of a Christian church creates striking harmony with surrounding Chinese architecture, evidence of late-Qing missionary activity. Most astonishing is Zhao Gong Shrine, dedicated to local scholar Zhao Yijiong, featuring a qilin bas-relief carved from a single bluestone slab—a masterpiece of craftsmanship. ## III. Culinary Codes of Cultural Fusion At dawn, enticing aromas waft through Qingyan's alleys. Local cuisine reflects the collision of military provisions and native wisdom. Qingyan pork knuckle, made from local black pigs, undergoes spiced marination, slow stewing, and brown sugar smoking to achieve crispy skin and tender meat—a preserved military ration turned signature dish. More remarkable is "chicken chili," where shredded free-range chicken is stir-fried with local peppers and fermented in clay jars for months—a preservation technique invented by garrison descendants. The morning market offers nearly-lost traditional flavors: stone-ground tofu balls simmering in sour soup; "cake porridge" combining sticky rice cakes with red bean congee; and "rose candy"—local double-petal roses preserved in malt sugar. These delicacies embody generations of women's culinary wisdom. In old teahouses near Ciyun Temple, regulars savor Qingyan Maojian tea while recounting each snack's history, as if reading a vivid local chronicle. ## IV. A Tapestry of Diverse Beliefs Most astonishing is Qingyan's compact area hosting such religious diversity. Along winding stone steps, one encounters Taoist Wan Shou Palace, Buddhist Ciyun Temple, Christian and Catholic churches—a rare "four-faith coexistence" among Chinese ancient towns. During the Guanyin Festival (19th day of the second lunar month), Buddhist chants mingle with Taoist ritual music; at Christmas, hymns float over ancient rooftops. This tolerance stems from Qingyan's mercantile history—traveling traders brought diverse beliefs, and pragmatic locals embraced harmonious coexistence. Cliff carvings behind Yingxiang Temple feature Confucian virtues, Taoist nature worship, and Buddhist compassion side by side. Most intriguing is a "Three Teachings Unity" stele depicting Confucius, Laozi, and Buddha together—typical of southwest China's syncretism. Household lintels display even more eclectic blends: ancestral tablets, demon-deterring mirrors, and crosses reflecting practical folk religiosity. ## V. The Ancient Town's Living Renaissance Today's Qingyan is both living museum and vibrant community. Mornings find locals washing clothes at ancient wells; afternoons bring children playing near scholars' mansions; evenings resonate with Tunbao opera in teahouses. This "living preservation" approach prevents hollow commercialization. In heritage workshops, Miao silversmiths' hammers accompany embroiderers' needles, weaving traditional crafts into the future. Weekly storytelling sessions feature local dialects recounting Zhuge Liang's southern campaigns, eliciting cheers from young and old alike. At nightfall, soft lighting outlines ancient walls. Taverns exude homemade rice wine's fragrance, while guitar strains from guesthouse courtyards harmonize with distant lusheng (Miao reed pipes). Qingyan thus maintains its stone-solid heritage while embracing creative modernity. Like the 600-year-old ginkgo at the town entrance—where fresh leaves sprout from ancient rings—the town embodies wise balance between preservation and progress. What makes this stone-built town truly moving isn't just its preserved Ming-Qing architecture, but its living cultural DNA. From military outpost to cultural treasure, Qingyan's story resembles Guizhou's underground rivers—calm surfaces concealing tremendous vitality.