Sevanavank: A Penitentiary for Wayward Monks

People didn't come here for the view; they were sent here to atone for their sins. The monastery on Sevan Island was a place of strict discipline, primarily housing monks from Etchmiadzin who had gone astray. In 1830, French traveler Jean-Marie Chopin summarized the local lifestyle quite simply: no meat, no wine, no youth, and no women. Today, it is one of Armenia's most visited landmarks. And the island has long since ceased to be an island. 🏝 The Island Where the Water Receded The monastery was founded in 874 by Princess Mariam, daughter of Ashot I. Back then, it sat on a secluded island. During the Soviet era, Sevan’s waters were diverted for irrigation in the Ararat Valley and to power a cascade of hydroelectric plants on the Hrazdan River. The lake's level dropped by about 20 meters, and the island eventually joined the mainland. While old books still call it an "island monastery," you’ll actually arrive by car at a parking lot at the foot of the hill. At the top stand two small churches made of dark stone, Surb Arakelots and Surb Astvatsatsin, surrounded by ancient khachkars (cross-stones) and the ruins of a gavit. The lake sits at an altitude of about 1,900 meters. The light here is sharp and mountainous: the water shifts from a deep, heavy blue to a metallic steel grey when clouds roll in. It is almost always windy, and from the peak, you can see the graceful curve of the peninsula’s coastline. 🧗 The Climb A set of 200–230 steps leads up from the parking lot. At this altitude, the climb feels steeper than it looks, so take it slow and don’t push yourself. Admission is free: this is a functioning monastery, not a museum with a ticket booth. Be sure to visit during daylight hours. 🚌 Getting There from Yerevan Sevanavank is about 65–70 km away via the M4 highway—roughly an hour and ten minutes by car or taxi. For a budget option, take a marshrutka (minibus) from Yerevan’s Northern Bus Station to the town of Sevan. They run approximately from 8:00 AM to 8:30 PM, take about 1 hour and 20 minutes, and you pay the driver in drams. Important note: the minibus goes to the town, not the monastery. The peninsula is a few more kilometers away, so it’s easiest to call a taxi via an app from there. 💡 Pro Tips · Arrive early to beat the tour groups from Yerevan. The morning light is softer, and the stairs are less crowded. · Bring a windbreaker even in August. High-altitude wind, cool air, and intense sun can all happen in one day; sunscreen is also a must. · Dress modestly, don't use flash in the churches, and avoid photographing people praying without their permission. · Explore the whole peninsula. On the southern shore, you’ll find the Armenian Writers' Union rest house, and on the northern side, the new buildings of an active seminary. The eastern shore is home to the President’s summer residence. · A note on fish: Ishkhan, the Sevan trout, is an endangered endemic species, and commercial fishing has long been banned. Menus often list "Ishkhan" but serve ordinary rainbow trout instead. If you want a local fish with a clear conscience, order the whitefish (sig)—it is legally caught in Sevan and farm-raised. · Swimming is viable in July and August when the water reaches about 20°C. Locals from Yerevan flock to the beaches on weekends, so aim for a weekday if you want to swim. · Have an extra half-day? The forested town of Dilijan is further down the M4 past the Sevan Pass, making for a perfect "lake and mountains" day trip. Do you think you could have endured the 19th-century monastery regime for even a week?