As the birthplace and memorial monastery of Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism, this historical and cultural site, over 600 years old, is a must-see. Photography of the stupa at the entrance is permitted, but not of the Buddha statues inside. The monastery currently houses over 1000 monks and more than a dozen Living Buddhas. While the throngs of worshippers are bustling, the atmosphere is peaceful and serene (perhaps the burning of large incense sticks is not part of the ritual). Many areas allow you to light lamps for blessings (20 yuan per person, depending on your conscience), and there are places to exchange change for prayers. Best of all, there are Chinese-language guided tours, and the guides are very professional; I learned more about Tibetan Buddhism than I did during my previous trip to Lhasa!